In the world of Hollywood, some stories are as fascinating as the movies themselves. Take, for instance, the tale of Edith Head, who walked into what would become Paramount Pictures in 1924. She wasn't exactly brimming with confidence, clutching a portfolio filled with drawings and paintings borrowed from her art class peers. She wasn't entirely sure about her own work, but she was ready to give it a shot. Little did she know, this moment would mark the beginning of a legendary career in the world of costume design.
Howard Greer, the chief designer at the time, was so impressed with her portfolio that he hired her immediately. In his memoir, he recalled, “Struck dumb with admiration for anyone with such diverse talents, I hired the gal on the spot.” It was a decision that would change the course of fashion history in films forever.
Even after Edith confessed the next day that the portfolio wasn't entirely her work, Howard saw something special in her and decided to keep her on board. Over the next five decades, Edith became a household name, earning an incredible 35 Oscar nominations and winning eight times. She wasn’t just a designer; she was the heart and soul of Hollywood costumes, dressing icons like Mae West, Dorothy Lamour, Jane Fonda, and even Steve Martin.
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Edith’s journey wasn’t just about designing costumes; it was about understanding people. Standing at just five feet tall, she became the first female head of costuming at Paramount in 1938. Her style was understated yet powerful—a nondescript skirt suit, severe bangs, and those iconic blue-toned sunglasses that helped her visualize how outfits would appear in black-and-white films. She mastered the art of balancing the demands of studio executives with the egos of the stars, often saying, “I’ve been a confirmed fence-sitter. That’s why I’ve been around so long.”
What set Edith apart wasn’t just her talent but her approach. She avoided trendy patterns, fearing they’d look outdated by the time the films hit theaters. Instead, she crafted timeless classics, like Grace Kelly’s elegant chiffon in Rear Window, Elizabeth Taylor’s romantic white gown in A Place in the Sun, and Gloria Swanson’s dramatic black nightgown in Sunset Boulevard. Her connection with actresses was deep, built during countless fittings where she asked them what they loved to wear and what made them feel confident. “Accentuate the positive and camouflage the rest,” she often said, earning her the nickname The Dress Doctor.
Her reputation was so strong that studios would “loan” her out to others when an actress specifically requested her. One of her closest friendships was with Grace Kelly. Edith expected to design Grace’s wedding gown for her 1956 marriage but lost out because MGM, which had Grace under contract, wanted the publicity for their designer, Helen Rose. Instead, Edith created the light gray suit Grace wore on her honeymoon, a testament to her grace and professionalism even in disappointment.
Edith Head’s Legacy: Beyond the Silver Screen
Edith wasn’t just a designer; she was a master of self-promotion too. In 1955, she appeared as a contestant on You Bet Your Life, bringing her charm to a wider audience. She also authored two books, The Dress Doctor and How to Dress for Success, sharing her wisdom with readers. Her advice was simple yet profound: “Don’t dress too different. You don’t want to dress like the herd, but you don’t want to look like a peacock in a yard full of ducks.”
In her later years, Edith moved to Universal Studios, continuing her work in film and television. She ventured beyond movies, designing uniforms for Pan Am flight attendants and tour guides at the United Nations. Her second marriage to set designer Wiard Ihnen lasted 39 years, and her influence only grew with time. Her legacy isn’t just in the costumes she created but in the way she taught the world to dress with confidence and style.
